![]() ![]() This is a different direction entirely and I like where it's going. The only reason I was going that route was prior experience with cars taught me the first to go is the HU then speakers and such but it seems this is not the case. I prefer the look of the OEM unit honestly I don't want a super flashy HU in my car. Most complicated install I've ever done, that's for sure. So should I worry about the rear decks, "center", and under-seat-subwoofers? I guess another 4 channel amp would take car of the center and rear decks and I'd have to use a Y adapter to get the signal from the other amp. the rest I'll have to think about.Ĥ channel amp(s) splice into the OE speaker leads going OUT of the amp TO the speakers themselves. Thus far I have figured that I'll do the following:Īftermarket HU (front out, rear out, sub out (1 channel), center out (1 channel) I think that I'll do the amps first and if that *still* doesn't fix the system then I'll bend and get the new speakers (non BSW). I do have an e90 (sedan as I understand it) so I would hope the rears are in phase. There is a thread on the speakers that fit, long of the short is that there aren't alot of options - 2 4" focal component sets, 2 4" morel component sets and some discontinued MB Quarts (RUA series, both 4" and 5" fit - though the 5" takes a little extra work but rewards you with more midbass output). Or if you want to upgrade you can definitely do better than the BSW's if you are putting new amps in anyhow. You'll be surprised the improvement just by amplifing the L7 drivers. If you are doing amps, I'd not do the BSW speakers - they are meant as an upgrade with the oem amp. If you have an e90, things are a little different and I am not sure about the rears being out of phase. I'd not use the center or rear deck speakers personally. Also note that there are 2 sets of rears, rear deck and side panels - rear deck is just the 4" driver, no tweeter. note that if you have a e92 (coupe) the rears are actually out of phase with the fronts, which is easy enough to correct while wiring up the amps. there's a wiring list in the DIY section, the wire colors listed are all correct. I *love* the DIY stuff, but I'm also working full time and in college part time so it can be rough trying to do this kinda thing - want to gauge and see if I should have an audio shop do it. Thanks for any help that can be provided. I've tried to research this as best as I could using this forum and reading (and re-reading) BSW's website for the sub install I'm just not finding answers to questions. I'm no MECP or anything like that, but I've installed a few systems and this car seems like I'd have to take the entire drivers side apart to get the cabling up there. However, running the RCA interconnect to the front seems like a HUGE pain in the ass. Next up is the installation of the sub/amp - It would seem that the connections to the battery, ground, to the sub and mounting the sub are incredibly simple with the battery being in the trunk. Am I totally screwed trying to change out the factory head unit since it's using some sort of optical cable that I can't use on my aftermarket head unit? I've been reading about the head units and it seems that some of them use fiber optic connections and it would appear that mine does too after looking at the harness. I purchased the stuff from Crutchfield for the install and first off the wiring harness *seems* to be incorrect - I was sent a Metra 120-70-9003 which does plug into my factory harness and the radio powers up BUT no sound comes out and I have to run my own switched lead. Hey guys, brand new to the site and BMW ownership, I just bought a 2006 330i with Logic 7, no navigation and as the title indicates I'm interested in replacing the head unit and adding an aftermarket sub/amp to the car. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |